So what happened to that junky Soviet car?

I always hate these long navel-gazey posts about people updating their blog template. They usually revolve around some wonky demographics like "Based on my Google Analytics, I thought it was crucial to optimise users from Scandinavia by including more Viking-like navigation and more mentions of the Swedish chef in posts". They're probably only of interest to the people who designed the template. And yet here I am in the middle of one.

It's just a quick word not to adjust your set and that this is still the Hackpacker you were reading last week with a few tweaks for look and functionality. Most of the elements from the old site have been brought over and threw in bookosphere links to bookish bloggers I like or have corresponded with recently. If you're not there apologies and I'll merrily add you if you send me an email. Let me know if there's anything else you're missing or wanting.

I'm steering clear of banners and other images partly because I'm no great shakes at photography but also because my main aim is to steer users (some people even call them readers) towards the words. The insanity of this on the no-time, I'm-already-bored, I-only-have-time-for-pictures-so-quit-bugging-me-with-your-huge-paragraphs web is well documented, but I'm a believer in longer content on the web.

The tragic loss is the beat-up car that has been at the top of my blog for over a year now. It's an old Soviet-style car that someone had driven over the border from St Petersburg that I saw parked in Finland. Farewell it as it sputters and puffs to the great junkyard in the ethernet.

Who is Sam Knott?

As you're driving from Melbourne towards Warburton, you might notice your health being toasted by a Father Christmas-like gent by the side of the road. Out the front of the Sam Knott Hotel in Wesburn there's a wood sculpture of an icon that decorated Australia's pool rooms and pub for just over a century.

The subject of the sculpture is Sam Knott, a prospector who came from England in 1888 just as Victoria's gold rush had run dry. Sam found work other work including in the pub that now bears his name. The current bartender reckons he was repeatedly paid the same pound note once a week that he religiously returned to cash register to clear off his weekly drinking slate.

In 1906 a photographer from the city snapped the enthusiatic drinker at the bar. When he remarked that he enjoyed his drink even though it was before noon, Sam cracked his famous line "I allus has wan at eleven" which became part of boozing and branding history. Carlton United Breweries loved the image it accompanying story - promptly putting Sam's mug and slogan onto posters that still hang in Victoria's pubs today.

Sam really needed an agent, because the lovable character never saw a cent from the image or his line. Some even claim he was misquoted as Sam reputedly regaled the photographer with:

I allus has wan at eleven
It's a habit that's got to be done
Cos if I don't have wan at eleven
I allus have eleven at one.

As poetic as Sam may have been, it's unlikely he came up with a verse mid-drink.
Still his legend lives on. Some speculate that he was really Sam Griffin and was renamed by the brewery. A story they tell around the bar at the Sam Knott hotel reckons that Sam's thirst was supernatural. When Sam died they brought his coffin into the hotel and propped it up against the bar for one last drink. They say that even as they lay the body in the ground Sam rose up again to for another drink. And some say it still happens with a shadowy figure leaning against the bar. Usually around eleven.


Image courtesy of National Archives of Australia's Virtual Reading Room.

Tango Collection Plus

Working from home you develop a special relationship with the postman. Your ears become attuned to the whirr of their motorbikes, the creak of the mail slot and the gentle thump of a letter arriving. This is the symphony of procrastination.
This week the thump was not so gentle as a package arrived from the publicity people at Allen & Unwin. It was an advance of the Tango Collection, an anthology of the excellent romance comic that won't be in stores until December. Bernard Caleo is the genius editor/illustrator/writer/male model behind Tango, collecting some of Australia's best comics in a bumper edition that tackles 'Love and...'.
This plump package arrived wrapped in brown paper (very much in keeping with the DIY craftiness of the original Tango) bound in a custom comic strip by Caleo himself. It was a nice little bonus that should make it into bookstores even if booksellers find it an annoying gimmick.
The survival of the book as a physical artefact will mean more 'books plus' ideas - anything that celebrates the physical form (especially artwork) and gives physical readers a bonus. The music industry has recently clawed back sales for physical music with deluxe editions of CDs that give listeners a little more: extra tracks, a video or a booklet that features artwork you can't get anywhere else. There could be some tips for book publishers here.
But the shark has well and truly been jumped for the physical object when a band re-releases music to support its video game, which is the case with The Beatles Rockband and the re-mastering of their back catalogue to push it. There's no thrill of the postie or serendipity of unwrapping when you download from iTunes.

Southern Star dimming

In 2008 Melbourne's skyline saw the building-up of a large Ferris Wheel in the re-vamped Docklands. The Southern Star was gleefully nicknamed the Melbourne Eye (likening the Antipodean to its London sibling) and, as manufactured tourist attractions went, it served as the ideal centrepiece for a new shopping centre.

For just under thirty bucks, Melburnians would find themselves (according to the marketing material) 'rising gently to 120 metres in one of 21 air-conditioned cabins' for a half-hour ride. Southern Star opened in late-2009 amid excited projections of over 30,000 tourists visiting a week. It even promised views as far as Geelong.
But early in 2009 a heatwave warped the big wheel and it was quickly shut down. Opened for just over seven weeks, it seemed that the designs couldn't take the heat and it seemed better to be safe than sorry. The $100m project has gone further into the red as the wheel needs to be repaired elsewhere and looks like it won't be up again for at least another year. Its slow disassembly has only magnified the white elephant, as piece by painful piece it's being taken down.

Luckily there's another drawcard planned for the area with the construction of the National Ice Sports Centre that is a relative bargain at only $58m. It's sure to endure summer's rising mercury much better than the wheel which resembles a slowly dying giant Pac Man over Western Melbourne.

Shadow reviews

There was a marketing questionnaire that came from Lonely Planet asking authors how many reviews they reckoned they'd written. I really wouldn't have a clue. As a guesstimate, there's hundreds in any guidebook you write then there's a gagillion food reviews, plus about a billion shadow reviews. These are the reviews you start writing then work out that your subject is never going to make it in, so you keep writing it just for yuks. Some of them are pure fiction while in others only the names have been changed to protect the innocent. Here's a couple from the notebooks - including my Scotland blog:

Seven-11
The ambience is bright, fluorescently so, with an emphasis on brand names and logos that lends a pop culture chic. Chef “Hi, I’m Dave”, whose career we’ve followed from the Dandenong Rd’s Shell Servo, offers us the five chocolate bars for two dollars, but go for the house special – the caldo cane. Rolling over on a unique warmer/disinfector, the “dogs” (indulgently $2.95) are lured to a perfect brown at the hands of “Hi, I’m Dave” (his step-mother hopes he’s out chroming). Drizzled with a choice of sauces (our pick is the clag-lidded sweet chilli), the dog is far superior to the disappointingly still-frozen pastie. Cleanse the palette with a boysenberry Slurpee.

Cafe Kneehighs
They skip the babychinos for industrial double esspressos at this overrun joint. Mothers dodgem car for tables inside or employ armies of under-fives to conquer tables in what must once have been a garden, but is now a warzone. Distract a waiter from having their kneecaps bashed-in with an Etch-a-sketch to order a jammy pikelet or a serve of fruit toast that will be snatched away as a frisbee. Ham and cheese focaccias come cut to look like Dorothy the Dinosaur or mulched with toddler handprint. The red whizzer has enough chemicals to keep littlies juiced-up and squealing "I am the lizard king!" until just after a recess but in a diabetic coma by lunch. Kneeshighs is the compulsory stop for mums on the way to school.

The Brigands Arms (tel: XXXX; 22 somewhere in Glasgow; hours: open for football games, closing abruptly after) is where locals and tourists meet and occassionally beat. Provided you don't order half pints and steer clear of mentioning interest in any kind of football, you should escape with little more than a bruised ego and a sore elbow from lifting pints. Food ranges from Bloody Mary's to the special, Knuckle Sandwich.

Introduction to an unamed town
While Scrags Moat has no actual attractions to speak of, there are the twin jewels of free lavatories and rivalrously free parking.

If your idea of restored period features includes black tape holding down the carpet and a pool table with original cigarette burns, then the Badger and Ampersand (tel: withheld; The Laneway, OuterHebrides; hours: no time you'd want it to) is a spot you'll want to have World Heritage listed. The impressive display of cleaning chemicals on the loo window is a nod to a hygienic history (when this place used to be cleaned) and encourages interactivity in most patrons (if you don't clean it, who will?).

Edinburgh Book Festival: Ghostly pursuits

As part of our Duelling Blogs series, our good friend over at the Saturation Point of Bells sent this update (crossposted).

To be honest, a ghost-writing workshop was not my first choice for Edinburgh Book Festival. However, being an aspirational little soul, I have not completely abandoned the notion that one day someone might actually PAY me to write something that I was going to write anyway. However much you tell yourself that whipping up a research document or conference report is a fine way to hone your writing skills, it hardly qualifies as "fun". There are people in the world who get paid for things they find fun. Its food for thought.

One such individual is sports journalist and ghostwriter Martin Hannan, who seems to make a pretty good living out of this ghostwriting lark. He's made a few quid out of NOT ghostwriting as well, thanks to the services of a good agent and smattering of canny contractual clauses. The moral of the story? Get a good agent.

There was much informative and entertaining discussion about the skills involved in writing someone else's voice. Many diverting factoids, as well. Did you know that Dick Francis's wife ghosted nearly all his books? I didn't. The need to sacrifice ego for craft was also noted, with due kudos going to Rebecca Farnsworth, Jordan's ghostwriter who, according to MH, has done a magnificent job of accurately capturing Jordan's pearls of wisdom in all their glory. With spelling. (Katie: "I talk into a Dictaphone and they go away and type it. I've got so many other things to do I couldn't sit there and type, plus I didn't pass English.")

I was getting quite excited. I've written for ministers and senior executives, I thought. I can do empty rhetoric and vapid monosyllables with the best of them. A corporate voice is still a voice, however inhuman. In my head, I was half-way to being intimate friends with half the celebrities on the planet, trusted guardian of their images and secrets.

I was bitterly regretting that most of my idols were highly literate, and wondering what doltish stars I might be able to love, when a little fly in my fantasy ointment became apparent. We were asked to interview each other and prepare a little ghost-written introductory paragraph to an autobiography, with a big glossy book on Scotland as the prize. One class member left early, and I had remembered Shelley Winters was in the Poseidon Adventure when no-one else did (long story), so I was to interview Martin himself. It was at about this point I remembered the inconvenient truth that I have never interviewed anyone in my life.

However, the bloke had just talked about himself for an hour, so I did have an unfair advantage. Nevertheless, I am enough of a suck not to want to seem like a twit to the teacher and well-established local journalist. With a ruthlessness born of desperation, I poked away at that most vulnerable of areas - childhood, family and religion, and within minutes he had helpfully confessed to seven years in the seminary training to be a priest. So there I had it, the Holy Trinity of popular autobiography, religion, journalism and football.

I left feeling rather pleased with myself, and with a big fat glossy book on Scottish history under my arm.

Recommended reading: The Ghost, by Robert Harris

Australia by Boat

More travellers are looking to go flightless either for green reasons or just to slow down and enjoy their trip. Unfortunately as border security tightens and global piracy increases, taking a boat to Australia is getting tougher.

Your best bet is to try to hop a freighter. The romantic days of crewing on a freighter are gone, so today you’ll have to pay. From the UK to Melbourne, for example, you can expect to pay around AUD$8,500. That’s the tough bit out of the way, now you can lie back and enjoy the journey which will take almost 40 days. Bring a book or, better yet, a set of encyclopaedias.

Travelling from Singapore to Darwin is quicker and cheaper but few companies take passengers on this route. You can travel on from Melbourne to Tahiti, California or even Canada. Ship life is fairly comfortable with meals provided and your own cabin, shower and possibly TV, plus you’ll get to make a few interesting stopovers you might not have planned.

You can start planning with companies like Strand Travel or Freighter World.

This piece was originally written for the Herlad Sun travel Q&A section. Published here at the request of Parlance.